When you are invited to write a 1000-word testimonial for East Lothian, setting out your love affair with the place, it carries a challenge similar in scale to selecting just eight recordings from a life time of music for Desert Island Discs!
With the prompt of innumerable grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins in the County, my family and I have naturally turned to East Lothian each year - for more than 50 years now - for our summer holidays and other breaks. East Lothian is unique in so many ways but above all, it offers an unparalleled menu of activities for anyone or a family seeking either a quiet time away or distractions for those with a short attention span.
The County is divided into two major chunks: an extraordinary and varied coastline (nearly 40 miles from Musselburgh in the west to Bilsdean in the east) and the ‘hinterland’ through woods and rolling farmland and the Lammermuir Hills, southwards towards Berwickshire. There are two good rivers: the River Tyne which flows eastwards and the River Esk which flows northwards into the Firth of Forth near Musselburgh. The county town of Haddington is pretty much in the middle of the county and with the A1 running east to west along the coastal strip and the A68 running south east out of Edinburgh towards The Borders, it is impossible - even for the most geographically challenged - to get lost!
So where to start? For me, the coastline is the real magic. Beaches, cliffs and hidden coves…they are all there. The Bass Rock (‘The Bass’) with its gannets have always been a major draw for me. You can travel out to the great volcanic plug by boat - if you desire the real sensory experience of the sea, the massed bird calls and the guano - or you can watch the biology of the rock from the Scottish Seabird Centre in North Berwick.
The harbour there has so much going on: The Lifeboat Station, a base for diving or sailing, a pause from shopping or just soaking up the people and the place. As a boy, I learned: to swim in the old saltwater lido (now gone), to sail a Drascombe lugger out of the harbour and to appreciate self-caught lobster and crab. Now, an enduring pleasure is a fish supper from Dino’s on Quality Street eaten on the harbour wall - in any weather and a pint afterwards in The Auld Hoose. The islands of Craigleith, The Lamb, Fidra (the ‘feather island’ which some say was the inspirational shape for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island ), tiny Eyebroughy and even the Isle of May far out on the horizon, they all have their own yarns and legends. Painters and writers: you are spoiled for choice in your inspiration - real or imagined!
For those with energy, the race each year from the harbour to the top of the North Berwick Law is a real lung-expander and tendon-stretch (followed by a dip in the Forth) while a walk or a bicycle along the coastal paths is a fine and easy way to spend the days. Most of the coastline can be walked and, provided you take care with the tides, the foreshore offers the mystery of flotsam, an unparalleled view of wildlife with seals, a rich variety of seabirds and all the fascinations to be found in rock pools - these broken up with matchless beaches for dogs and humans to run! And… and a bracing swim and surfing as well!
Dunbar is perhaps less well-known, but it too has a very special character. A much bigger working harbour, a good dive centre, a ‘grown up’ lifeboat, a fine swimming pool for those days when the weather is a bit challenging, its own 7th century castle ruins and a bridge on the beach in the middle of nowhere. For those requiring a proper challenge, Dunbar is one end of the 134-mile John Muir Way away to Helensburgh on the west coast. Beer, smoked fish and glorious bakeries to add to the mix!
In all this, there is a tremendous sense of history, at every turn, to colour any day out. Very close to the border with England, there are many castles to explore and to match them to the campaigns. The charismatic Tantallon on its clifftop perch but also the beautiful Hailes Castle in its magical riverside setting.
No visit to East Lothian would be complete without a bit of golf. Most courses offer sensible rates for beginners and the casual visitor. I am not a proficient golfer but have enjoyed some wonderful days with my young family learning how to hit the ball and find it when bashed into the rough. And, if you are any good, Muirfield and the links courses are without match anywhere in the world, grand views, a sea breeze and unusual course designs all make it fun and challenging.
No family holiday would be complete without a trip to the moors though the villages the like of Garvald and Gifford. A network of narrow roads with streams (‘burns’) running close by criss-cross the Lammermuirs. It is great to gather a simple picnic and just enjoy being away from it all. Heather, water, rock and the “Geback, Geback!” of grouse calling! The source of the Whiteaddder - which feeds the mighty reservoir - is for us an annual pilgrimage with guests ‘baptised’ in the ice cold spring and a glass of Glenkinchie whisky (from the distillery at Pencaitland) and water - perhaps with the odd sheep dropping - straight off the hill.
I am getting close to my word-limit and I have still failed to cover so much: the food (humble and foodie), monasteries, our own history at Whittinghame, the fishing, camping, the farming communities, Athelstaneford (the ‘birthplace’ of Scotland’s flag - the Saltire), The National Museum of Flight, the perfect racecourse and Mr Luca’s ice cream parlour in Musselburgh and of course a great welcome across the County.
I love East Lothian and it has provided a fabulous and constant home and holiday base for our itinerant Army family. We have had so many adventures - and these across all generations - and in quite a small space, easy to reach, at modest cost and with no hassle. Each year, we find something new and we can also return to known haunts. Just the job. I am looking forward very much to seeing you again soon. Thank you East Lothian.
David Allfrey has recently handed over (after nearly 10 years) as the Producer & Chief Executive of The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. He took up this appointment following a varied 33-year military career which included command of the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards and 51st (Scottish) Brigade. Under David’s leadership, the Tattoo delivered over 235 shows in Edinburgh, Sydney, Melbourne and Wellington, entertaining live audiences totalling nearly 2.6 million!
Take an easy trip from Edinburgh or enjoy a day out while staying in East Lothian and visit some Outlander filming locations, while taking in the lovely coastal scenery.
We start in Musselburgh just a short drive along the coast from Edinburgh at Newhailes House & Gardens. The house is the setting for Governor Tryon’s North Carolina mansion in the opening episode of Season 4 - America the Beautiful. Although the Outlander story has now moved to America, most of the filming still takes place in Scotland. Newhailes House is a beautifully designed, 17th century Palladian style country house under the care of the National Trust for Scotland, ideal for a Governor’s mansion.
Leaving Musselburgh, we join the main A1 road, on the way along you will see a flag on a hill, marking the site of The Battle of Prestonpans. Turn off to visit the memorial site and take in the vista of how the Battle unfolded in the countryside around the area. It is well worth the short walk up hill to the memorial with the story boards or you can see a commemoration board by the battlefield site. “Prestonpans” merited a full Episode, 10 of Season 2, and is one of the most dramatic and emotional episodes in the series. The events surrounding the battle are pretty well portrayed in Outlander, but nothing beats reading about and taking in the scenes from the real-life battlefield. The battle scenes were filmed in Muiravonside Country park near Falkirk.
On to our next filming location, Gosford House on the coast at Longniddry. Gosford House is a stunning 18th century mansion house, family home of The Earls of Wemyss. It can be visited on a few selected days of the year. Gosford was used for a few locations. Once more a Scottish location is used for an overseas scene. In Season 2 the stables stand in for the stables at The Palace of Versailles, where Jamie is checking out horses for the Duke of Sandringham. But it is in Season 3 that Gosford House really shines. The exterior is Helwater, the country estate where Jamie is indentured as a groom to the Dunsany family. The beautiful marble interior is the inside of Ellesmere, the home of Geneva’s husband and Jamie’s son William. In the quirky twists in which Outlander excels, this location is intertwined with Hopetoun House in West Lothian, where the internal and stable shots for Helwater are filmed and the external view of Ellesmere is the front vista of Hopetoun House. It can take quite some detective work being an Outlander tour guide - pulling all the scenes together!
Further along the coast towards Dunbar, Ravensheugh Sands has dramatic views of The Bass Rock. Picture yourself as Claire and Brianna taking a stroll along the beach, until Steven Bonnet arrives, and things take a nasty turn for the worse. Season 5, Episode 10 is one of the most dramatic episodes of the series.
We will make one more, brief stop featuring a scene with Stephen Bonnet before our final stop on our tour, Preston Mill. The old auction house, The Mart at East Linton featured in Season 5, Episode 2 as the venue for the “Wilmington Fight Club”. The Mart is now a community hub which provides quality local Scottish produce and a first class shopping and eating experience.
We complete our tour at one of the most iconic Outlander locations, Preston Mill. The Mill, managed by The National Trust for Scotland, is one of Scotland’s oldest working mills and is very photogenic with its unusual shape. The mill is an attractive architectural oddity with a Dutch-style canonical roof. For Outlander fans, the interest lies with the water wheel which drives the machinery. The wheel is supposedly at Lallybroch, the Fraser family home, which is filmed at Midhope Castle in West Lothian. This is where Jamie strips off to mend the broken wheel and hides from the redcoats. One other small room at Preston Mill was used in filming, as the side room where Claire and Geillis consult with Ned Gowans, the lawyer, at the Witch Trial – which was mainly filmed at Tibbermore Church in Perthshire. The water wheel at Preston Mill means so much to Outlander fans that they were very supportive of The National Trust’s fundraising appeal to repair the wheel last year.
Please do check locations are open, as it is not always possible to see inside, but at Preston Mill, even if it is closed you can still see the water wheel. Enjoy your “Outlander Day” while learning some of the real history of some sites that are maybe not so well known around East Lothian.
And to find out about other film locations that you can visit check out East Lothian On Screen – #loveeastlothian responsibly and plan ahead #knowbeforeyougo.
East Lothian is a great place to live, work, visit and explore. Recent times have given us more reason to stay local and explore what’s on our doorstep. Our county has much on offer whether it’s for a short staycation, or if you’ve chosen to spend your holidays in Scotland. One of the big draws is the connection to our landscapes, the geology and people that shape these and the wildlife we can experience. Although we may be entering the final few weeks of summer, these landscapes continue to inspire and reveal seasonal changes as autumn creeps up on us.
The East Lothian landscape is framed by a backdrop of the undulating Lammermuir hills that are made of rocks from the floor of an ocean that has long since disappeared. Currently cloaked in their purple heather-cladding, there are many routes that can be taken to explore the area. The most famous is arguably the Herring Road which was used by fishwives carrying huge creels of herring from Dunbar harbour to the markets in Lauder.
Whilst the Lammermuir hills paint the backdrop for our landscape, the Firth of Forth is the open vista onto our coastal beaches, skerries and islands. Nestled between these are rich, native woodlands clinging to the steep sides of rivers that flow out to the sea - my favourites include Woodhall Dean and Brock Wood both Scottish Wildlife Trust sites - and there’s fertile farmland that provides lots of tasty local produce for us. Each of our local towns and villages including Dunbar, Haddington, North Berwick, Prestonpans and Musselburgh offers a distinctive gateway to both a historic past and thriving future.
The East Lothian landscape has been shaped through millions of years of geological time. Our towns are starting to bustle again but it remains easy to find quieter spots to explore too. Whilst doing so, you might reflect on the fact that these reveal a far more disturbed period of fire and explosions as volcanoes erupted and thick magma pushed through the earth’s surface to create distinctive landmarks such North Berwick Law, the Bass Rock and Traprain Law. Almost everywhere you go in East Lothian you will see these protruding from the landscape, a reminder of a far more explosive past. Climb them and you will be rewarded with 360-degree, panoramic views over the County and across to Fife. On a clear day anyway! These areas also have interesting iron age and wartime histories to delve into.
Modern conservationists are calling for a ‘rewilding’ of our landscapes. In this context, East Lothian is rightly proud of its historic association with John Muir, the great naturalist and father of national parks, who was born in Dunbar in 1838. Although Muir immigrated to the United States at a young age (11 years old) he is said to have retained a strong bond with his birthplace. A great way to find out more about his life is to visit the John Muir Birthplace, whether you are in the town for a day trip or are completing the 136 mile long John Muir Way which stretches from Helensburgh on the West coast to Dunbar. You can of course just potter along shorter stretches of The Way between our coastal towns and stop for some light refreshment along the way. A more recent addition to the John Muir homage is the 5m high Dunbear, which was created by the renowned artist Andy Scott. It’s well worth a stroll from the town centre to see the imposing Bear.
There are many inspiring quotes attributed to John Muir. One that sticks with me is “In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks”. East Lothian provides plenty of year-round natural wonders to enjoy. Being based at the Scottish Seabird Centre, it is perhaps inevitable that I am drawn to our varied coastline and islands such as Fidra, Craigleith, The Lamb and the Bass Rock. In the summer these are home to internationally renowned seabird colonies including the world’s largest Northern gannet colony on the Bass Rock. You can enjoy the sight, sound (and smell!) of 150,000 Northern gannets by taking a wildlife boat trip from the Scottish Seabird Centre or viewing them from the remotely operated cameras within the Centre. The gannets and their young (gugas) will hang around until at least late October, before they set out on their long journey south to winter in rich feeding grounds off West Africa. Other seabirds, such as puffins and the black legged kittiwakes have already started leaving their summer nesting sites for a winter at sea and will not return until next Spring.
Although the seasons will be changing soon there’s still much to explore along our seashore with ample opportunity for rock pooling, bird watching and looking out for seals – the harbour and grey. Grey seals will start to have their pups, coated in a white fur, in late October to early November and a safe way to view them is from the Centre’s remote cameras out to the Isle of May National Nature Reserve. You can find out more about the wildlife above and below the waves in the Scottish Seabird Centre’s recently refurbished Discovery Experience where story boards, interactive games, animations and the remote cameras can all be explored.
I hope that you will take the opportunity to explore our small corner of Scotland. I’m sure you won’t be disappointed, whatever the weather, by the variety in our landscapes, wildlife and history.
Remember to plan ahead, follow current guidance, know before you go and #loveeastlothian.
Images courtesy of the Scottish Seabird Centre.
There’s not much of the school holidays left but it’s not too late to find your next great day out or holiday in East Lothian. Now that tourism is open for business and good to go, there is plenty for you and your family to enjoy safely – from rural retreats to exhilarating watersports and from the great outdoors for walks to family run restaurants and bars - read on for your staycation inspiration…
East Lothian is fortunate to have accommodation of all types and for all budgets in secluded rural locations, in picturesque villages and in charming towns along a stunning coastline and in idyllic countryside. No matter where you choose to stay, you will be met with a warm welcome. Winton Castle self-catering cottages provide a fine example of what’s on offer. Set in Winton Estate in the village of Pencaitland, three luxury, self-catering country houses exude comfort, style and tranquillity. They are available on a flexible basis for full weeks, long weekends, or weekday short breaks. For serviced accommodation that’s intimate and is renowned for its food & drink, investigate the offer at Garleton Lodge just outside Haddington. This luxury B&B/small hotel has a hilltop position offering spectacular 360-degree panoramic views There are eight en-suite rooms and facilities including a lounge with a bar, restaurant, BBQ hut, spa/treatment room, hot tub, relaxation room and golf facilities with club storage, drying room, practice bunker and putting green. If you love camping and caravanning, you’ll love East Lothian’s sites. Many sites and parks have caravans, lodges and pods and there is some excellent glamping too. If you are a nature lover, wildlife spotter and appreciate beautiful beaches, check out Belhaven Bay caravan and camping park. The park is located within John Muir Country Park, a nature reserve with an adventure outdoor play area, woodland walks and the stunning Belhaven Bay beach with endless golden sand and instagrammable views. Dunbar, birthplace of John Muir the famous explorer, naturalist and founder of the National Parks movement in the USA, is just a short walk along the coast and the town has everything you need for your visit. When you’re there, you can visit Dunbar’s very own ‘Dunbear’, a symbolic statue to commemorate John Muir’s connection with the town and his travels through America’s great outdoors.
With views just as stunning from the opposite side of the bay on Tyninghame Beach is Harvest Moon Holidays, offering glamping in treehouses, beach cabins and a beautiful cottage. All treehouses and cabins have wood-burning stoves, en-suite WC and hot showers. On site you’ll find a farm shop, BBQ and campfire facilities. Younger visitors love the Kids Corner with chickens, alpacas, bunnies, lambs and pygmy goats.
Have a look here to begin planning.
Feeling like you’ve been a bit cooped up? Looking for something a bit more strenuous than your usual walk? How about taking to the water and trying your hand at coasteering, SUP, kayaking, surfing or wakeboarding? These are just some of the activities for you to enjoy a day in a wetsuit! The folks at Ocean Vertical, Venturing Out and Foxlake Adventures are all set up and ready to go!
Having said that, walking is a great pastime and very good for your physical and mental health and there are many paths and routes to explore either on foot or bicycle. Most famous of all is of course The John Muir Way, but did you know that you can also walk the John Muir Link from Dunbar to Cockburnspath? For a cross county stroll, the Haddington to Longniddry railway path makes a lovely day out with some very tempting places at either end to enjoy a coffee, spot of lunch or dinner. Falko, a small German bakery in Haddington offers traditional cakes or for a light lunch, Longniddry Inn has some great dishes to whet your appetite. Just outside Edinburgh, yet miles away from all the hustle and bustle, is Musselburgh. Take a walk along the River Esk walkway and make sure to bring a paper and crayons/pencils to complete the Musselburgh Trail.
East Lothian is rightly renowned as Scotland’s Golf Coast with the greatest concentration of championship golf courses in the world and some of the best links courses to boot. In fact, there are 21 courses to choose from along a 30 mile stretch of scenic coastline. Check here for detailed information and to book your perfect golf break.
All this walking, cycling, exploring, watersports and golfing is sure to give you an appetite and you’ll be glad to know that East Lothian has some first class places to eat and drink. From coffee and delectable homebaking at Cake Cafe, North Berwick and Tyninghame Smithy to fish and chips at the seaside from The Rocketeer, North Berwick. From great pub grub at The Crown & Kitchen beer garden, in the quaint village of East Linton and The Brig & Barrel, Dunbar to relaxing meals at The Bonnie Badger, Tom Kitchin’s Pub & Restaurant with rooms in the heart of Gullane and Duck’s Inn hotel, restaurant and bar in Aberlady. Look out for the places that are proud to be using local produce. Many of our products are available in farm shops, local shops and on the high street for you to take home and enjoy later or to whip up a feast in your self-catering accommodation! Be sure to try lobster fresh from the boat at the Lobster Shack, bread and pastries from Bostock Bakery and Dunbar Community Bakery, real ale from Winton Brewery at Station Yard, ice cream from Alandas and pizza from Hector’s Artisan Pizza.
We know that you will be wanting reassurances before you visit and we advise you to know before you go. Please do check with individual businesses direct regarding booking, opening and safety arrangements in place and also plan ahead to ensure that you know what facilities are open and have alternatives to more popular areas.
#LoveEastLothian Now!
It could be wet, it could be snowy or it could be a beautiful crisp sunny day, you never can tell with February!
One thing we do know is that it’s a great month to listen out for early birdsong. Love is in the air and many birds are seeking partners to build their nests with. Much of the birdsong you will hear are male birds signalling that they have claimed their territory. This lets other males know to stay away and invite females to pair up. It’s an announcement of the bird’s status as “lord of the manor”, as it were.
There’s a huge variety of birdsong. The robin produces one of the most beautiful songs - a liquid, lyrical series of notes ranging in pitch and tone. The beauty of the song and the fact that robins sometimes sing at night (particularly near street lights) can fool people into thinking that they’ve heard a much rarer nightingale. The bullfinch song on the other hand, consists of several low-pitched whistles sounding fairly miserable. It’s almost like the bird is having a really bad day and just can’t be bothered singing! However, they are lovely looking birds, with bright red breasts and black cap.
It can be tricky to identify birdsong. One of the easiest is the great tit with a clear and repetitive two notes, the song is said to resemble a small schoolchild calling out “teacher, teacher, teacher!”
In a similar vein, song thrushes are also loud and repetitive. The song is a series of strident notes repeated three or four times. Song thrushes usually sing from a prominent perch, such as a tree top, making them relatively easy to spot. Thrushes are probably familiar to most, with their predominantly brown plumage and characteristic speckled breast.
Some birds don’t sing at all to stake their claim. Great spotted woodpeckers hammer their beaks against trees (and sometimes pipes or telegraph poles) to produce a rapid-fire drumming sound. These birds are not completely silent voice-wise, as they can also be heard making loud yipping calls.
Birdsong is definitely worth listening out for. It can brighten up even the drabbest of February days and, with a bit of practice, you’ll find it a valuable tool in helping to identify birds – especially those awkward ones which refuse to show themselves.
Thank you to East Lothian Council's Countryside Ranger Service.
Sláinte from East Lothian
East Lothian is Scotland’s Food & Drink County and what a great selection of drinks we have to ensure you entertain in style this festive season! Here are some of our Visit East Lothian favourites. Make the perfect cocktail or enjoy on their own with these fruity liqueurs and mixers.
Aelder is a wild elderberry elixir that is distinctive and versatile. Handcrafted in small batches, elderberries are infused with wild Scottish herbs and botanicals, before blending with a young whisky and a touch of spice. Make the perfect champagne cocktail just add 12.5ml Aelder to a flute and top up with fizz.
Fraiser is a uniquely Scottish drink blending the flavours of premium Scottish Whisky with wild strawberries. Try adding equal amounts of Bourbon and Fraiser to orange bitters & Gomme syrup for a twist on the Old Fashioned.
For a traditional winter spiced treat, Gullane Glogg is the ideal mixer with a combination of orange infused with spices. Make a delicious mulled wine, ready to serve in minutes.
NB Distillery makes one of our favourite gins but did you know they also make citrus vodka and golden rum? NB Citrus Vodka is dry and smooth try adding 2/3 part pomegranate juice, 1/3 triple sec, a dash of lime juice & orange zest to 1 1/3 parts vodka. NB Full Bodied Rum has intense fruit notes. Try it neat or with a small splash of water to open up the flavour!
Fidra small batch gin is infused with botanicals including sea buckthorn, elderflower, rosehip and lemon thyme handpicked locally. Makes the perfect G&T!
Thistly Cross is a well-established East Lothian cider maker and if you’re a fan make sure you try the Winter Thistle, but be warned this a limited edition with only 600 bottles available, so you better be fast!
East Lothian is not short on handcrafted beers - from the tradition of Belhaven Brewery to the new kid on the block Winton Brewery, there’s a style to suit all tastes. Here’s a snapshot.
Winton Brewery is producing IPA, APA and fruity and sour beers in their Pencaitland brewery and we just love the names – Oh Ya Bassa, Peelywally, Bruce Juice & Barry Swally.
Hurly Burly’s bottle conditioned real ales are all made using East Lothian base malts in their Musselburgh brewhouse. They are also in the running for our favourite beer names - Gnat’s Hop, Giddy Goat, Hare of the Dog, Last Sheep Sheared & Blimey.
Belhaven Brewery celebrated it’s 300th birthday this year and from that day to this, still brews famous beers using only the finest local barley and hops. It’s best known for prhttps://visiteastlothian.org/business/archerfield-house/oducing Scotland’s Best-Loved Best!
It wouldn’t be Scotland without a dram of the ‘Water of Life’ and of course we highly recommend Glenkinchie the Edinburgh Malt. Enjoy straight up or with splash of water!
Of course, you’ll want the perfect end to your festive feast and we have two award winning tea & coffee merchants that will ensure you do just that.
Brodies with over 150 years’ experience in the art of roasting coffee and blending tea, no matter what your preference, you’re sure to find something from their range. Brodies have trusted fair trade relationships across the world and are always discovering fresh and exciting flavours.
Steampunk has fast become a North Berwick institution roasting only fully traceable and responsibly source coffees. Green beans are sourced at their seasonal best so the coffee on sale is always changing.
From all of us at Visit East Lothian we wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year - please drink responsibly.
A day out needn’t break the bank if you follow our top tips for free things to do in East Lothian, only minutes from Edinburgh.
Beaches
If you’re visiting Dunbar, you will be spoilt for choice with some of our most dramatic beaches. Dunbar East Beach is just minutes from the High Street and parking is nearby at the Leisure Pool. It’s a great beach for rockpooling!
Just down the coast is Skateraw beach, a must for those with an interest in geology. Look out for the impressive macaroni rock!
For those who love a sandy beach with dunes, rockpooling and perfect sandcastle sand, then visit Thortonloch just of the A1 between Dunbar and Cockburnspath.
For more information about all our beaches visit here.
Walks
Whether you are looking for a leisurely stroll or something a bit more energetic, there are loads of great walks in East Lothian.
We have a great range of walking leaflets which highlight where to go and what to see in our towns and villages.
You can also take a walk along our stunning coastline and one of the best ways to do this is to follow the John Muir Way.
Take a walk that will provide you with amazing panoramic views across the county from these vantage points.
With such a great vantage, Traprain Law was first settled in the bronze age. This volcanic rock rises to 724ft and dominates the landscape in every direction. It is now home to a herd of ponies which adds to its photogenic appeal.
The Traprain Hoard of roman silver was discovered 100 years ago and you can see this treasure on display at the John Gray Centre, Haddington.
Another major landmark is the Hopetoun Monument. Climb the 132 steps to the top for breathtaking views of the Firth of Forth and surrounding countryside. On a clear day you may even catch a glimpse of the Cairngorms!
If you’re visiting, North Berwick don’t miss the chance to climb North Berwick Law. At the top you can see the remains of an Iron Age fort, military buildings that were lookouts in the Napoleonic Wars & in World War II and a whale’s jawbone!
Picnic Areas
Family time in the summertime means relaxing picnics and hours of play and fun. Here are some of our fantastic parks with activities to please children and adults alike.
Lauderdale Park, Dunbar
Lodge Grounds, North Berwick
Lewisvale Park, Musselburgh
Neilson Park, Haddington
Visit here for more information.
Museums
Discover the history of East Lothian in the innovative interactive museum at Haddington’s John Gray Centre. Until October, you also have the chance to see the Traprain Hoard of roman silver on display. There’s plenty here for everyone and kids can collect stamps on the postcard trail.
Encounter John Muir in the home where he was born in Dunbar. John Muir’s Birthplace explores his life through interactive displays and permanent exhibits.
The Coastal Communities Museum in North Berwick highlights the towns heritage and hosts special exhibitions. This year, Teenage Kicks looks at growing up in North Berwick between 1945 to 2015. This nostalgic fun and informative exhibition features films, music, costumes and games.
Explore the history of Musselburgh in the towns museum from its earliest days through Roman settlement and medieval upheaval to its fame as a thriving fishing harbour.
Hidden Gems
The Woodland Trust look after Pressmennan Wood near Dunbar. This beautiful woodland surrounds a lake and is home to abundance of wildlife. It is also home to mythical creatures, Glingbobs and Tootflits, follow the trail through the woods and see if you can find their houses!
Sitting within Dunglass Estate is Dunglass Collegiate Church. This 15th century gothic church is a Historic Environment Scotland property and contains some find carved stonework in an attractive pink-hued sandstone.
For those who love exploring, go into the woods in Gifford to search for the secret subterranean Goblin Ha’ , the only remains of Yester Castle. It was built by Hugo de Giffard, the ‘Wizard of Yester’. The local population believed the well at the castle is a portal to hell!
Planning a spring escape? There's lots to do in East Lothian! The Visit East Lothian team spent an amazing weekend at the Scottish Cycling, Running & Outdoor Pursuits Show showcasing the range of outdoor activity and experiences on offer. Our new Go East Lothian Trail proved extremely popular with cycling enthusiasts and the zipline gave a flavour of the thrilling outdoor treetop ziptrail at Foxlake Adventures.
Walkers were interested in the John Muir Way and the John Muir link as well as the many paths and trails that run throughout our coast and countryside.
For the watersports fan, you can't beat a trip to Dunbar, North Berwick or Longniddry where you can surf, SUP, kite-surf, kayak and sail to your hearts content.
Scotland's Golf Coast is promoting some great packages this spring, don't miss the chance to play some of the the world's best courses, stay in welcoming accommodation and enjoy fresh local food and drink.
Mother's Day is fast approaching, East Lothian is the perfect destination to spoil that special lady. Why not enjoy an outdoor activity and then treat her to a delicious lunch or sumptuous afternoon tea.
Here are just some of our top spots for afternoon tea. Frangipane is a real hidden gem, this pop up tea room in Longniddry has some of the best home baking around. Be sure to check direct with them for their next event. Lewis & Clarke Artisan Kitchen will even deliver a traditional afternoon tea direct to your door, so everyone can relax. Archerfield Walled Garden is offering a menu full of tasty mouthwatering bites over the Mother's Day weekend.
For lunches, you can't go wrong with The Bonnie Badger, recently awarded AA 5 star status. Tom Kitchin's new restaurant with rooms is sure to please. Set on the harbour at North Berwick, The Rocketeer is famed for seafood fresh off the boat. The newly refurbished Rocks Bar & Restaurant is the perfect setting on top of dramatic cliffs in Dunbar. With sea view rooms and a menu featuring the best of local produce, it' a winner!
So what are you waiting for, start planning your spring visit today!
My first experience with bikepacking was back in 2006, crossing Scotland on a mountain bike, burdened with a 14kg backpack to carry everything I needed for a three week trip across the Highlands & Islands. Back then, I hadn’t heard about East Lothian, and bikepacking bags hadn’t been invented. The most common feedback I got from my friends about the trip were the words crazy and amazing. I muted the crazy and focussed on the amazing.
I left Scotland for a while after that trip, but in 2009 I returned after two years in New Zealand. I had spent the last two years cycle touring on the other side of the world, often called ‘Scotland on steroids’. The more I toured, the less I took with me, and from the initial two pannier setup, I went back to carrying everything on my back. This gave me the opportunity to wander much more off the beaten track. My cycling became much more adventurous. The last two months before I left for Europe were mostly spent on two wheels, following the tire tracks of the Kennett Brothers, exploring the South and North Island.
When I settled in Edinburgh in 2009, I abandoned mountain biking for a while. With no car, I relied on public transport most of the time, but after a while I got tired of the long train journeys there and back. Instead of taking the train I decided to cycle to places, inspired by the riders in the 1930s that went from Youth Hostel to Youth Hostel. I took very little with me, a toothbrush, a spare base layer, a pair of boxer shorts and my credit card would do, plus a few essentials like pump, patches and multi tool. On some weekends I would ride more than 500km easily. In my own way I became addicted to road cycling.
As the years went on, the attraction of the road bike slowly faded away, in 2013 I rediscovered the joys of a mountain bike. Simplicity became the key to my riding, so I went on to convert my mountain bike into a singlespeed bike. When I heard about the Highland Trail 550 in late 2013, I applied for a place and got accepted. I still hadn’t heard about bikepacking bags. A few days before the race, one of the toughest in the world, a friend from Hamburg offered to lend me his bags and saved my race.
‘Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity.’ John Muir
I didn’t take me long to get hooked. Although I was one of the slowest racers in the Highland Trail 550 I finished the race. Considering that more than half of the starters drop out, this was an achievement, the finishing time didn’t matter much to me. I was amazed by the flexibility the bags gave me, and was also stunned by how little it takes to have an adventure in Scotland. All my belongings were stuffed away in two smallish bags. My bike was light enough to lift it over fences. With bikepacking I discovered a totally different side of Scotland. I loved being in the mountains, I enjoyed the solitude and remoteness.
Soon after I started developing my own routes, and this is when I first discovered East Lothian. For the Edinburgh Festival of Cycling I wanted to create my own bikepacking event and therefore a new route. When I stumbled across the Cross Borders Drovers Road I started searching for historical routes in the Scottish Borders. But in order to get there I needed a good route out of Edinburgh. What I found was a paradise right next to my front door, a part of Scotland I had not explored before. East Lothian offered so much while being so close to home. Instead of spending hours on the train heading up to the Highlands, I explored the tracks in East Lothian.
The Capital Trail attracted more than 80 riders in June 2015, a huge success given that bikepacking was still in its early days. While most people loved the wilderness of the Scottish Borders, it were the trails in East Lothian that stunned people the most and incentivised them to come back.
Shortly after the Capital Trail I left to cycle around the world. While I had every intention to get to the UK Singlespeed Championships in two days, my first day didn’t go to plan at all. Leaving late at 4.30pm in the afternoon forced me to rethink my plans and cut the first day short. When I climbed up to the Lammermuirs, I experienced one of the best sunsets I had in the whole year, a memory that stayed with me for the rest of the journey. And while I could still spot the lights of Edinburgh from where I pitched my tent on the first night, I really felt that this is a part of the world I would love to explore more.
When I returned after a year of experiences, cycling 34,000km through 26 different countries, I had to give my life a new direction. Bikepacking was still developing, but at a much faster pace than when I left. Working on the Capital Trail and receiving great feedback for the route encouraged me to change direction and start Bikepacking Scotland and become a freelance marketing and tourism consultant. Although some great routes already existed in Scotland, I had the strong feeling that there was potential for much more.
Gradually I built up an offer of routes. First was the Reiver Raid, a bikepacking journey in the Ale Water Valley. The next route was the West Island Trail, a bikepacking journey connecting four hostels in the west of Scotland. Shortly afterwards I devised a route that combined bikepacking with scenic railway journeys, the West Highland Rover, while continuously working on the biggest project, the Central Belter, for almost a year. For the Wild About Argyll Trail I worked with Argyll and the Isles Tourism Co-operative to create the first bikepacking trail for gravel bikes. During the year my approach to creating those routes became much more defined. The feedback for each new route gave me the opportunity to improve things.
When I got approached by Elaine from East Lothian Council to present on those projects last December, I got excited about returning to East Lothian. What was missing in the portfolio was a shorter route, accessible for people new to bikepacking. Something families can enjoy, and a route that is short enough to encourage people to leave their office for once during the week, strap a tent, mattress and sleeping bag on the bike and go out there.
The Go East Lothian Trail offers all the adventure the longer routes bikepacking offer, but in a more condensed format. I haven’t met anyone who tried bikepacking and didn’t like it. Bikepacking is a good incentive to take only what you need, and nothing more. It’s a great opportunity to reduce yourself to the things that really matter, something that gets lost too often in modern day societies.
‘Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.’ John Muir
Bikepacking gives you the chance to reconnect with nature and enjoy those stunning views. The East Lothian Trail is designed in a way that you can do that without any hardship that long distance routes bring with them. There is a great variety of surfaces along the route, from quiet tarmac roads to some very nice singletrails. There’s a café around the corner, there’s the opportunity to meet local people. And if you are too tired, there’s always a train not too far away. And if you are hungry for more, there’s plenty of opportunity to extend the route.
As every route development involves a lot of riding, I used the shorter distance as an opportunity to try different bikes riding the Go East Lothian Trail. I started on my 27.5plus adventure bike, then took my round the world singlespeed bike, a gravel bike and finally an e-mountain bike. I rode the route in one go, and took my time and camped overnight, with one of the best views ever, watching the sun setting over the Lomond Hills on the other side of the Forth.
All the time I rode the route I had a big smile on my face. And that’s exactly what I would like you to take away from riding the trail. And if you do, then tell others about it.
A day trip is nothing without the right food and drink. Sometimes this is just a picnic or fish and chips on the beach. Other times, it is about finding the right pub, restaurant or café in which to enjoy the local offerings. Here are some of my favourite foodie day trip ideas in East Lothian
The Gullane Road-trip
On a bonnie day, a road-trip out to Gullane is a fine idea. Only 20 miles from Edinburgh, Gullane is mostly known for its golf. But it is also ideal for a day out - with a beautiful beach for a spot of sunbathing or walking. After your exercise, why not stop for a spot of lunch at The Old Clubhouse. This relaxed eatery has plentiful seating inside, as well as an outdoor area for good weather. With a variety of pub classics, as well as bistro favourites such as crab cakes and charcuterie, you will likely find something to suit everyone. The Old Clubhouse is also dog-friendly, which means your furry friend can enjoy your road-trip too!
A Fine Day for Fine Dining
I like nothing more than a well appointed dining room and lovely white linen table cloths. But alongside that the food must be locally sourced and well-balanced. There are some wonderful fine dining experiences in East Lothian, as well as bistro options that highlight the best of the area’s produce. For a luxurious dining experience, try Chez Roux at Greywalls, Gullane – the scallops were delicious. For a Tweed Valley steak in a characterful setting, try The Rocks in Dunbar.
The Dunbar Harbour walk-nic
Picnics are so passé, walk-nics are the new alternative. With the prevalence of street food, and with such a stunning harbour to stroll around, why not try it? There are often food trucks down at the harbour, or you could grab an ice-cream to walk with. Our chosen walking food was a panini – the most mobile of all sandwiches! Although, beware the seagulls who will likely want to steal your chosen food item!
On your stroll, keep an eye out for Sammy, the harbour’s resident seal, who you can regularly see patrolling the harbour hoping for a lucky meal. On our recent visit, he swam up and down next to the fishing boats, looking for some morsels from the fishermen.
At one end of the harbour is the remnants of Dunbar Castle; a haven for Kittiwakes. And over the other side, Dunbar Battery. This historic outpost was built during the Napoleonic war but never used; it also once hosted a hospital for containment of infectious diseases! Nowadays it is a renewed area for the public, including a small amphitheatre for performances.
The North Berwick tipple
Whether you prefer gin and tonic, or just a soda water; there is nothing better than finding the perfect spot to have a refreshing beverage after a day of beach-combing. North Berwick has a lot to offer for a day trip (read all about that here) - shops, golf, walking, and the Scottish Seabird Centre, so you’ll need a place to relax after a day out. For a great selection of whiskeys, try the Auld Hoose on Forth Street. For tasty food and a good range of gin, try The Ship Inn. Both are dog-friendly.
Whether you are out to enjoy the natural beauty of East Lothian, or to do a spot of shopping at one of the many independent retailers the area hosts; there is a great array of foodie options to sample any taste or budget. From foodie day trips, to eating out options on a longer stay, East Lothian has many cafés, restaurants and bars to choose from. Check out the listings here.
Hannah Henderson - www.hannahhendersontravel.com
