How to Spend a Long Weekend in East Lothian

June 23, 2025

By Adventures of Alice

Located just a short drive from the Scottish Capital, East Lothian is known as Edinburgh’s coast and countryside. It’s the perfect weekend break for someone looking for rich history, incredible landscapes, beautiful coastline and great seafood.

With its golden beaches, dramatic castles, and charming seaside towns, this region offers a little bit of everything - whether you’re into outdoor adventures, stunning castles, or simply a relaxing coastal retreat.

We arrived in East Lothian on Thursday evening after a long drive up from Southern England. However, while we would’ve easily stayed longer, we managed to cram a lot into a long weekend and think this is well worth the drive.

So, if you’re planning to visit this beautiful region of Scotland, here’s our weekend itinerary for East Lothian.

Day 1: Arrive in East Lothian

We arrived on a Thursday evening at around 3pm. The drive was around 5.5 hours which is quite a long one, but we made a few stops along the way to break up the journey, so it didn’t seem too bad.

When we arrived, we headed straight to our accommodation and we were able to check-in.

Where to stay in East Lothian

We stayed at Rock and Castle, a beautiful Estonian-inspired Iglu hut with stunning views over Tantallon Castle and Bass Rock. We love unique places to stay, so this was perfect for us, plus the views were fantastic!

The cabin was cosy and comfortable. It also has everything we need for the weekend including a large double bed, outdoor seating (which would be lovely in the summer), an en-suite bathroom, and a small kitchenette with a hob.

The owners also left us a bottle of prosecco, which was a lovely gesture!

Go for gin tasting at NB Distillery

After settling into Rock and Castle, we went for a gin tasting at NB Distillery. This is one of the best distilleries in East Lothian and is a little different because it’s gin instead of the whisky Scotland is famous for. They produce rum and vodka too, but gin is their speciality.

NB Distillery opened its doors in 2013 after a home experiment went exceptionally well. They went on to win the 2015 London’s Best Dry Gin award just 2 years later! NB Gin has also served at Queen Elizabeth’s 90th birthday and Harry and Meghan’s wedding!

Our tour guide was Alison and she was fantastic. We started our tour sipping a freshly made gin and tonic cocktail with fresh grapefruit, while she gave us loads of information about the experience and the distillery’s past.

We then went upstairs and tried 3 of their signature gins: The London Dry Gin, the Navy Strength, and the Samphire Gin. We also tried a few small samples of their rum and a Negroni cocktail which was also delicious!

My personal favourite was the London Dry Gin with a slice of grapefruit.

All the gins are created using locally sourced ingredients including the samphire which is collected on East Lothian’s shores. They are also very eco-friendly using solar and collecting rainwater.

Once we’d finished our tasting, we walked back to Rock and Castle - it’s only 10 minutes away on foot - and had a cosy dinner at the cabin.

Day 2: Explore Dunbar

The next day, we headed to the coast to explore Dunbar. This is only a 17-minute drive from our cabins and is one of the most beautiful towns in East Lothian. It has a great selection of history and a stunning coastline.

Visit Dunbar Castle and Battery

We started the day by exploring the Castle and Battery. Both of these are now in ruins, but there’s loads of information in the harbour about the history of both.

The battery was originally built as a seafront defence and yet, despite storing cannonballs during the war, it never fired a gun.

Over the years, it had many different uses. It was once an infectious disease hospital and became social housing in the 1920s. Today, it’s empty, but you can still walk around, admire the views, and see where the cannons would’ve been.

Dunbar Castle is located just a short walk from the battery. It was once one of the strongest fortresses in Scotland and several fortifications were built here over the years. It was also visited by many Kings and Queens in its time including Mary Queen of Scots.

Today, Dunbar Castle lies in complete ruins. Although you can’t get inside as it’s fenced-off, you can admire the castle's dramatic remains from the harbour. It’s also the entrance to the modern-day harbour, as the castle was partly demolished to create a passage for ships.

Walk Along the John Muir Way

Whilst in East Lothian, you can’t not explore the John Muir Way. John Muir was one of Scotland’s most famous naturalists and known as the father of the national parks.

The John Muir Way stretches across the country, but one of the most scenic sections runs along Dunbar cliff tops. This easy, picturesque walk offers stunning views of the rugged coastline, with waves crashing against the cliffs and seabirds soaring overhead.

The bright red cliffs are beautiful and it’s one of the most scenic places we visited during our weekend in East Lothian. The path is mostly flat but there are also steps leading down the beaches, so you could spend all day here if you wanted to!

Visit John Muir's Birthplace

Once you’ve explored the coastline, head to the town centre and visit John Muir’s Birthplace. This museum is located in the house where Muir was born in 1838.

It offers a glimpse into his early life and the exhibits showcase his passion for nature as well as his influence in the creation of national parks in the United States. It’s a must-visit for anyone interested in the Scottish-born pioneer.

Preston Mill is one of the most unique places in East Lothian. With its quirky, cone-shaped roof and rustic charm, this 18th-century watermill looks like a cross between a little cottage and Hagrid’s Hut!

Nestled on the banks of the River Tyne near East Linton, the mill is run by the National Trust for Scotland. It’s open between 10am - 4pm, Thursday to Monday.

You can explore the grounds for free but if you want to go inside, you have to pay for a guided tour. The tours are £11 per adult and run at set times throughout the day from 10:30 until 15:00.

It’s a great way to learn about its fascinating history, see the old mechanisms in action, and hear stories about the mill’s role in local industry.

We were also surprised to learn that many everyday phrases, like ‘milling around,’ ‘run of the mill,’ and ‘throw a spanner in the works,’ actually originate from milling!

Preston Mill was also used as a location in Outlander. Our guide pointed out the exact spot where one of the main characters Jamie Fraser hid behind the mill and told us that the filmmakers had to build a temporary dam to deepen the water for the scene.

After your tour, you can also take a short walk to the nearby Phantassie Doocot, a beautifully preserved pigeon house dating back to the 16th century.

Finally, drive to Whiteadder Reservoir. This is a 30-minute drive from Preston Mill and is a lovely way to end your first full day in East Lothian.

Surrounded by rolling hills and open moorland, Whiteadder Reservoir is a great place for a scenic walk, birdwatching or simply enjoying the scenery. If you’re into watersports, this is also a great spot for kayaking and paddleboarding which are all available from April.

We visited in mid-March, so a little too early for water sports, but we enjoyed a relaxing walk around the reservoir, and the scenery is really beautiful. There are several trails from short strolls to longer hikes that take in breathtaking views of the Lammermuir Hills.

It’s the perfect way to round off your day before heading back to North Berwick for dinner.

We recommend the Rocketeer for Dinner. You might need to book a table as it’s small and can get very busy. They serve a great lobster though, so it’s well worth it!

On day 3 in East Lothian, explore some more of the area's beautiful coastline as well as climb an old volcanic hill.

Explore Gullane Bents

Gullane Bents is one of the most beautiful beaches in East Lothian. It’s located about 20 minutes from Rock and Castle, it has a little bit of everything.

It’s a great paddle boarding and kite surfing beach and we saw a lot of people out on the water despite it not being the warmest day! There’s also a beautiful stretch of golden sand to relax on and would be perfect for sunbathing in the summer.

If you walk down the beach, you’ll find plenty of rock pools and you can also climb some of the rocks for stunning views across the bay. If you continue to walk down, you can also climb up a small hill for amazing views across the Firth of Forth.

We went for a walk along the sand, then circled back up the dunes and walked along the cliff path back to the car.

Have Lunch at Archerfield Walled Gardens

If you fancy a coffee and a bite to eat afterwards, head to Archerfield Walled Gardens. This unique destination is a blend of a café, garden centre, and working garden, serving a range of fresh local produce.

We stopped by the café for a bite to eat - I chose a salmon baguette and a chocolate brownie - and then ate in the outdoor seating area which was lovely for a spring day in March.

After lunch, we went for a walk through the gardens. Although it was a little early in the season for the flowers to be in full bloom, the scenery was still lovely, and we could see the fresh produce being grown for the café.

Explore Dirleton Castle

After we’d eaten, we hopped back in the car and drove to Dirleton Castle. Nestled in a charming village, this medieval fortress is one of East Lothian’s hidden gems. It also re-opens at 13:30, so it was the ideal place to visit after lunch.

Dating back to the 13th century, Dirleton Castle is an impressive ruin with one of the oldest surviving castle gardens in Scotland. You can climb to the top to admire the views or head underground to see where they held banquets, stored food, and even kept prisoners.

As well as the castle itself, you can also explore the gardens. The vibrant floral displays are beautiful in the spring and summer months.

Visit Yellowcraig Beach and See Fidra Island

After you’ve explored Direlton, drive the short 6 minutes to Yellowcraig Beach. This is one of the prettiest beaches in East Lothian with stunning views across the Firth of Forth and the dramatic Fidra Island.

Said to have inspired the book Treasure Island, Fidra is home to a picturesque lighthouse.At the beach, you can go for a walk along the shoreline, have a picnic in the dunes, or even paddle in the water on a warm day.

There’s also a well-maintained coastal path if you fancy a longer walk and a children’s play area so it’s perfect for a family day out.

Hike up North Berwick Law

For your final stop of the day, head to North Berwick Law. This is a 12-minute drive back towards your cabins. If it’s a clear day and the sun is setting, you’re in for some truly gorgeous views!

North Berwick Law is a conical hill that rises 187 meters above the town. From the top, you can see panoramic views over East Lothian and even as far as Edinburgh on a clear day.

The hill was formed by an ancient volcanic plug - and if the plug is as big as that, the volcano must’ve been ginormous! To get to the summit is a short but steep hike, and it takes around 30 - 40 minutes.

At the top, you’ll find the iconic whale jawbone arch (fun fact: there’s been a jawbone at the top of North Berwick Law since at least 1709!), and ruins of an old wartime lookout station.

If you time your hike for sunset, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking golden-hour views over the coastline. It’s the perfect way to end the day in East Lothian.

Dinner at The Grange Restaurant

For dinner, we recommend The Grange in the centre of North Berwick. This steakhouse is incredibly popular with the locals and I recommend booking a table.

They serve a delicious selection of steaks, burgers, mac and cheese, and fish dishes. I opted for the fish mixed grill which included king prawns, haddock, salmon, and seabass, and it was delicious!

Day 4: One Final Castle!

For your final day in East Lothian, spend the morning around Tantallon Castle and Bass Rock. Go for breakfast at one of the most popular cafes in the area, then explore the castle and the beach.

Breakfast at Drift Cafe

Drift is one of the best and most popular cafes in North Berwick. It’s located just a 3-minute drive from Rock and Castle, so it is a quick drive from your cabins.

Perched on the clifftops, Drift offers delicious food and stunning coastal views. The café is also housed in a converted shipping container, making it truly unique.

The menu focuses on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, like freshly baked sourdough, Scottish smoked salmon with scrambled eggs, and delicious pancakes. Pair your meal with one of their expertly brewed coffees, and you’ve got the perfect start to the day.

You’ll definitely need to book a table here though as it’s very popular and can get packed!

Visit Tantallon Castle

Once you’ve eaten your breakfast, make your way to Tantallon Castle, one of East Lothian's most iconic landmarks.

This dramatic cliff-top fortress dates back to the 14th century and is one of Scotland’s most striking medieval castles. The location alone is beautiful - perched right on the edge of a cliff overlooking the North Sea, surrounded by a dramatic coastline and crashing waves.

Tantallon Castle was once the stronghold of the powerful Douglas family who ruled the region for ages. But the castle was left in ruins following a siege in the 1600s.

Today, you can climb the towers, walk along the battlements and head down into the basement. There’s also loads of information about the castle's history and surroundings.

From the fortress, you’ll also have fantastic views of Bass Rock, a small isolated island that’s home to one of the largest seabird colonies in Europe. In summer, the rock is so full of birds that its surface often appears completely white with gannet nests.

This was one of our favourite places we visited in East Lothian, both for the history and the views.

Go for a Walk along Seacliff Beach

For your final stop in East Lothian before you head back home, go to Seacliff Beach. This hidden gem is a small, secluded beach with stunning views of the North Sea and the dramatic cliffs surrounding it.

You’ll also find the ruins of a stone pier on the beach and the UK’s smallest harbour and plenty of rocks and pools to explore along with a soft, sandy shore perfect for relaxing. We also saw plenty of paddleboarders here, so it’s great for watersports too.

To add to the appeal even more, you can also see the silhouette of Tantallon Castle perched on the rocks in the distance.

Plus, Seacliff Beach is often less crowded than other beaches in the area. It’s a great place to sit back and listen to the sound of the waves crashing against the shore and a beautiful spot to end your weekend in East Lothian.

Is a Weekend in East Lothian Worth it?

Absolutely! The region offers a perfect balance of natural beauty, outdoor adventure, and rich history and I truly believe that East Lothian has something for everyone.

It's easy to access from Edinburgh for a quick getaway from the city, although you could easily spend longer than a long weekend here.

Overall, we had the best weekend here and the scenery - both the countryside and coastline - was stunning. I highly recommend a visit to East Lothian when you’re in Scotland.

Interested in seeing the above recommendations in action? Watch the video of our adventure on Instagram.

 

Jackie Gardiner
Author: Jackie Gardiner

Visit East Lothian