Dunbar & East Linton By Train
As the train breezes down the east coast like the sea air itself, the sights and stresses of city life swiftly slip away, replaced by countryside and coastal scenes. Less than 20-minutes from the bustle of Edinburgh Waverley, the calm and charm of East Lothian’s towns and villages were all mine. I spent 48 hours across two destinations, seeking relaxation, good food, and time by the sea. Here’s how it went.
Journey time from Edinburgh Waverley: 20 – 30 minutes
The High Street
Dunbar’s historic High Street is lined with small, independent businesses, and reminders of the past, from the striking Dunbar Town House to the birthplace of a humble man who went on to do extraordinary things (more on that, below).
My wander commenced with caffeine at Espresso Black, before browsing The Found Gallery, Flux, and The Tipsy Truffle, where I treated myself to a bag of handmade artisan chocolates. For balance, lunch was a deliciously fresh and healthy Buddha bowl with spicy peanut chicken from Parkers.
John Muir’s Birthplace
Famous writer, explorer, inventor, conservationist, and founding father of Yosemite National Park, John Muir, began his life in Dunbar in 1838. Though he and his family moved to America when he was a child, it was his roots and early years roaming this corner of the coast that inspired his love for nature and the man that he became. His birthplace is now a fantastic free museum documenting a timeline of his life and incredible achievements.
Those who complete the full 134 mile long distance walking route, the John Muir Way, can pick up a certificate to mark the accomplishment from the museum. You can also purchase a John Muir Way Passport to collect stamps along the route. There’s also a small shop with books about the man himself.
Don’t forget to check out the statue of John Muir as a boy on the other side of the High Street.
Cliff top walk
For me, Dunbar’s ultimate allure is its position by the sea with a coastal, clifftop trail on the John Muir Way which can be explored and enjoyed to whichever extent you please, whether it’s simply sitting on a bench to watch the waves or walking along to the sandy Belhaven Bay and onwards to East Linton. I didn’t have to venture far for the coast to work its magic.
I strolled along the red sandstone cliffs, aglow in the sunlight, admiring views out to Bass Rock and Belhaven Bay in the distance. Returning towards the town centre, a stone tunnel provided the perfect frame for the ruins of Dunbar Castle along the coast. I finished my walk with a roam around the vast Victoria Harbour, Dunbar Battery, and the rockpools, complete with reflections of the colourful houses, by Dunbar Beach.
Dunmuir Hotel
Whenever I spend time by the sea, particularly when there’s sunshine involved, the craving for fresh fish & chips hits hard. The award-winning 1902 Grill at Dunmuir Hotel came highly recommended and the hype was well justified, as I discovered over dinner.
Strategically, I ordered the half portion of fish & chips (still huge!) to make way for the scallop starter with an Asian dressing and salad. The setting was modern and comfortable, the service was perfect, and both dishes were faultlessly delicious.
Journey time from Edinburgh Waverley: 17 – 24 minutes
Journey time from Dunbar: 6 – 7 minutes
Votadini
Within 10-minutes of stepping onto the platform at East Linton train station, I was sat at a table beside the kind of gas fire I haven’t seen since the 90s. In fact, the whole place was reminiscent of childhood visits to elderly family members, and I loved it.
Votadini, run by the Brunton family for 27 years, is a quaint wee village café, community hub and unexpected blast from the past. Such a setting left me no choice but to order the signature ‘mince and tatties’; pure comfort and nostalgia on a plate.
Not satisfied with just one visit during my time in East Linton, I briefly returned for a pot of tea before my train, plus a takeaway tub of old-school sweeties to complete my journey down memory lane.
Bostock Bakery
Full of mince and tatties, but never full enough to skip a sweet treat, I inevitably ended up in one of best bakeries on the east coast. This local artisan bakery is a paradise of pastries and a must-visit in East Linton. Already well acquainted with their outstanding almond croissants, I opted for their namesake pastry instead, my first ever bostock; essentially a croissant in loaf form. The perfect flaky snack to enjoy at my next stop.
Preston Mill
Across the road from Bostock Bakery, a green metal sign indicates the route around the cluster of farm buildings, past the 16th Phantassie Dovecot (built to accommodate 500 pigeons) and towards Preston Mill.
From the peach-coloured roof tiles and stonework, to the original watermill and wonky conical roof, this historic attraction is an enchanting sight to behold.
Managed by the National Trust for Scotland, and open to the public for guided tours from March to October.
Preston Mill has seen a surge in visitors in recent years following its appearance in the Outlander TV series; fans will instantly recognise it as Lallybroch Mill, where Jamie hid from passing redcoat soldiers in season 1.
Night Owl Books
What’s a charming village without a beautiful wee bookshop? The independently owned Night Owl Books is a delight for the avid reader, with a glorious selection of fiction and non-fiction, and shelves pinned with hand-written personal recommendations from owner Rebecca.
There are gorgeous cards and gifts too, plus a super-cute children’s nook hidden through the back. Naturally, I left with one book for me and one for my baby (status at time of writing: bump).
For more from The Chaotic Scot's East Lothian adventures, check out the videos below:
Author: Jackie Gardiner
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